lol....if I'm not careful. But if the fence only exists on paper, then the damage is far less worrisome, even though still painful. Paper-cuts suck. I'd hate to imagine them in specific parts.PTCynic wrote:If you keep that up you won't have a need for a stripper.Slayve2DnD wrote:lol I wasn't hating, I was sitting on both sides of the fence.
My dungeon tiles
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- Slayve2DnD
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Re: My dungeon tiles
I'm not retarded...I'm a simple creature...there is a difference.
Re: My dungeon tiles
(Okay, folks. If you're going to continue this, please move it to another thread so we can keep torstan focused on putting out great graphics! )
Re: My dungeon tiles
Re-rail.
Concerning these tiles, how suitable are they for use in GIMP to make non-maptool dungeons? For those GIMP users, would you use them as a brush or is there some other way to stamp things down in that program?
Concerning these tiles, how suitable are they for use in GIMP to make non-maptool dungeons? For those GIMP users, would you use them as a brush or is there some other way to stamp things down in that program?
Re: My dungeon tiles
Do it the same as MT. Set your grid size to the size of the tiles. Turn on snap to grid. Insert the tiles. Rinse and repeat.
Re: My dungeon tiles
Do you cut and paste them or is there some sort of 'stamp' like functionality in GIMP where you select an image from a pallet then stamp it down on the current layer? I seem to recall a guy setting his brush to an image and stamping that down on a grid but its been a while since I read that article.RPMiller wrote:Do it the same as MT. Set your grid size to the size of the tiles. Turn on snap to grid. Insert the tiles. Rinse and repeat.
Re: My dungeon tiles
The best way I've found to do this is the following.
1. Lay down the background. This is best done by opening the texture you want to use, hit select all and then copy. This imports it into your patterns palette. For longer term use it's probably worth saving the texture as a .pat file into Gimp's Patterns directory (in your <user>/gimp/ directory. Then use the rectangle marquee tool and Fill with pattern (ctrl-;). That should make for very quick floors.
2. Place walls. You can drag and drop the images from a folder into a current Gimp document. They appear as new layers. They can quickly be rotated (shift-R) and constrained to standard angles (ctrl whilst rotating). Also set the move tool to Move Current Layer. Do all of one element at once - like all the corners - and build them up by using duplicate layer to get new corners. So for one type of tile:
- duplicate layer or drag and drop to get a new corner tile
- move (with move current layer applied) to move it into place.
- rotate (shift-R) and hold ctrl to get it o snap to the right angles
-Repeat.
- Flatten all the layers with the same item on it once you're happy with the elements position.
3. Do this for all the wall elements and once done flatten the layers into a Walls layer.
4. Do the same for other terrain (background layer) elements. Keep them on their own layers! For example, a stairs layer, an elevations layer... You can quickly move a stairways layer below the walls layer to make sure that all the stairs are correctly organised.
5. Turn off snap to grid (View -> snap to grid), create a new objects layer and add all your set dressing by dragging and dropping, moving and rotating as before.
Voila! Hope that helps.
1. Lay down the background. This is best done by opening the texture you want to use, hit select all and then copy. This imports it into your patterns palette. For longer term use it's probably worth saving the texture as a .pat file into Gimp's Patterns directory (in your <user>/gimp/ directory. Then use the rectangle marquee tool and Fill with pattern (ctrl-;). That should make for very quick floors.
2. Place walls. You can drag and drop the images from a folder into a current Gimp document. They appear as new layers. They can quickly be rotated (shift-R) and constrained to standard angles (ctrl whilst rotating). Also set the move tool to Move Current Layer. Do all of one element at once - like all the corners - and build them up by using duplicate layer to get new corners. So for one type of tile:
- duplicate layer or drag and drop to get a new corner tile
- move (with move current layer applied) to move it into place.
- rotate (shift-R) and hold ctrl to get it o snap to the right angles
-Repeat.
- Flatten all the layers with the same item on it once you're happy with the elements position.
3. Do this for all the wall elements and once done flatten the layers into a Walls layer.
4. Do the same for other terrain (background layer) elements. Keep them on their own layers! For example, a stairs layer, an elevations layer... You can quickly move a stairways layer below the walls layer to make sure that all the stairs are correctly organised.
5. Turn off snap to grid (View -> snap to grid), create a new objects layer and add all your set dressing by dragging and dropping, moving and rotating as before.
Voila! Hope that helps.
Re: My dungeon tiles
I'll give it a shot when able. Would you say that a maps are quicker to create in Maptool or GIMP?
Re: My dungeon tiles
Not GIMP, but PhotoShop for me, MapTool is faster if I have tiles to work from.
Re: My dungeon tiles
A little quicker in maptool - the advantage of gimp is that you can do fancy stuff like drop shadows and add non-tile elements. But the huge advantage of maptool is the ability to create maps that are much smaller in filesize than one created in gimp and imported. Maptool wins hands down on handling large maps with tiles.
Re: My dungeon tiles
I'm trying to put together and aritcle for the Dice of Life concerning rapid mapping. So it sounds like maptool may be the best tool for that but GIMP gives a better product.
The other thing I'm trying to do is produce maps for articles and 1 page adventures. I assume GIMP is better for that but slower.
The other thing I'm trying to do is produce maps for articles and 1 page adventures. I assume GIMP is better for that but slower.
Re: My dungeon tiles
Well maptool can't export a whole map at anything other than screen resolution. This means it's very hard to export a decent quality map at print resolution (you'd have to have a screen that's 3-4 times the size of a sheet of paper in both directions to get a letter sized map out at 300dpi). So yes, photoshop, gimp or (I believe) dunjinni are better for quick mapping for print.
Re: My dungeon tiles
And there's always the quickest of all methods - using a map from rpgmapshare, the dunjinni forums or the Finished Maps gallery at the Cartographer's Guild (Thumbs of all maps here: http://www.cartographersguild.com/utili ... edMaps.htm)
Re: My dungeon tiles
yeah, theft is always my first option but I'm afraid of copyright issues.torstan wrote:And there's always the quickest of all methods - using a map from rpgmapshare, the dunjinni forums or the Finished Maps gallery at the Cartographer's Guild (Thumbs of all maps here: http://www.cartographersguild.com/utili ... edMaps.htm)
Re: My dungeon tiles
Most of the entries in the cartographer's guild are listed with copyright info and it's very easy to ask people. Normally personal use is absolutely fine - and let's face it, if you're using it for your home game it's going to have to be a very extreme person that's going to object to that assuming they ever find out. Publishing it somewhere is an entirely different kettle of fish - but the Creative Commons licenses that many people have on the CG make this pretty clear as well. RPGmapshare actually requires that you submit precise copyright info with every map uploaded so the rights associated with images there are very clearly stated.
Re: My dungeon tiles
Slightly faster/easier method.torstan wrote:1. Lay down the background. <snip> Then use the rectangle marquee tool and Fill with pattern (ctrl-;). That should make for very quick floors.
Instead of using marquee tool, just click on the Pattern of choice and drag it to your working window. It will fill the entire active layer or a selected area if it one is active. You can do the same with the foreground/background color.